Roadtripping the Outer Hebrides – Itinerary & Things To Do

When my friend, Vicky Flip Flop, messaged me to ask if I fancied doing an Outer Hebrides road trip in Scotland, it didn’t take more than a few seconds to be like – I’m in! Not that I usually need much encouragement for a road trip, but this was September 2020 and I was desperate to travel.

To be honest, I didn’t even know where the Outer Hebrides actually where, but a quick check of the map taught me they weren’t up in the far north of Scotland like I thought (that’s the Shetland and Orkney Isles).

The Outer Hebrides, also known as the ‘Western Isles’, is a group of islands off the west coast of mainland Scotland. There are 15 inhabited islands and many more uninhabited ones. The main islands being Lewis & Harris, Uist, and Barra.

The islands are more beautiful than you can imagine, with a rare, tranquil, rugged sort of beauty that you don’t find very often. Just when you’ve seen the most stunning beach you’ve ever seen, you turn a corner and there’s another one.

We had an amazing time, so I wanted to share our Outer Hebrides itinerary with you, with some ideas of the best things to do and see along the way to help you plan a trip of your own trip to the Western Isles.

We travelled through the Outer Hebrides in September 2020 when it was still under Coronavirus restrictions and a few places were still closed, but we still very much enjoyed exploring the islands all the same.

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Planning a Trip to the Outer Hebrides in Scotland

Getting To & Around the Outer Hebrides

The most popular way to get to the Outer Hebrides, is to drive to one of the ports on the mainland (Oban, Ullapool, Mallaig) or the Isle of Skye and then take your car across to the islands on one of the Cal Mac ferries that run pretty frequently. These ferries also travel between the islands too.

If you’re in a car/campervan especially, it’s definitely better to book well in advance as there are limited spaces. Foot passengers have a lot more flexibility.

The easiest way to get around the Outer Hebrides is with your own transport, whether it be a car, campervan, or even bike. There is some public transport, but you’ll have a lot less freedom than you would driving yourself.

If you don’t want to take your own car, you could either get the ferry as a foot passenger or fly into Barra, Benbecula, or Stornoway with local airline Loganair. Flights depart from various locations around the UK.

Once there, you can hire a car or campervan, and then make your way through the islands. Carhire Hebrides allow you to pick up a car in one location and drop it off in another.

Another popular activity is walking or cycling the Hebridean Way which goes from top to bottom of the islands and we met a few people doing this whilst we were there. If you don’t want to go it alone, Rabbies has a 6-day tour to the Outer Hebrides and the Isle of Skye.

Our Outer Hebrides Itinerary

If you do decide to go island hopping, you can start pretty much anywhere, but it makes sense to either start and end in Barra or Harris/Lewis, as they are at the top and bottom of the Outer Hebrides.

We drove to Oban (via Loch Lomond), got the ferry to Barra, stayed in Barra 1 night, then got the ferry to Uist, stayed 1 night there, then got the ferry to the Isle of Harris, drove to the Isle of Lewis (Harris and Lewis are 1 island), spent 2 nights there, drive back to Harris, stayed 1 night and then got the ferry to the Isle of Skye and then drove to the mainland.

I really enjoyed our trip and it felt like a real adventure. But knowing what I know now, I would probably have spent an extra night on Barra and an extra night on Uist to explore and relax a little more. I would have liked to do some kayaking here (if the weather allowed).

And, although not the Outer Hebrides, I would have liked to have spent more time on the Isle of Skye (in the Inner Hebrides). A few hours driving through it is not enough. I think you need at least a day or two, to really make the most of it, so I’d add an extra night in Skye.

So my ideal Outer Hebrides itinerary would look something like this:

• Day 1: Ferry from Oban to Catlebay, Barra
• Day 2: Exploring Barra & Vatersay
• Day 3: Ferry from Aird Mhor to Eriskay, Uist
• Day 5: Exploring Uist
• Day 6: Ferry from Berneray, Uist to Leverburgh, Harris
• Day 7 & 8: Explore Harris or Lewis
• Day 9: Tarbert, Harris to Uig, Skye OR Stornoway, Lewis to Ullapool (for NC500)

As Harris and Lewis is so big, I would perhaps suggest splitting where you stay so that you’re not driving so far! In terms of in what order to explore Harris and Lewis, whichever you are leaving from, stay and explore there last!

You can of course do shorter trips or longer trips and you don’t have to island-hop as we did. You can just fly or get the ferry into one island and stay there.

Alternatively, if you have longer (like an extra week or even two), you could also add in places like the Inner Hebrides (Skye, Mull etc), Glasgow, Edinburgh, Inverness and the famous North Coast 500 route. You could then detour to explore the Orkney or even the Shetland Islands! The possibilities are endless.

If you’re a foodie, check out the Outer Hebrides Food Trail and Map. There’s also a foraging guide if that’s your thing!

Where to Stay in the Outer Hebrides

There are lots of great places to rest your head in the Outer Hebrides, from campsites with facilities and wild camping, to beautiful hotels and glamping pods. Having your own campervan or tent definitely gives you an extra bit of flexibility. You can hire a campervan from Hebridean Campers or perhaps hire one on the mainland to bring over to the Hebrides.

We did a mix of camping on campsites, wild camping and staying in hotels. If you do decide to camp, make sure you are prepared with the right equipment. We, were not. You will need a strong and low tent, especially if you’re camping near the water.

We brought a big tent, which blew down on our first night, and we’d borrowed extra strength tent pegs from a lady in a campervan. The minute she saw us, she came over and was like ‘That tent won’t last the night’. She was right. Another night Vicky stayed in her tiny, 1-woman low tent and I slept in the car. Also not ideal.

If wild camping, you will also need to follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code. For some tips on how best to go about it, my partner in crime, Vicky, has written a great post about everything you need to know before wild camping in the Outer Hebrides.

I’ve listed some places to stay under each location below, but just note that many of these will book up in advance.

Cost of Travelling to the Outer Hebrides

You can make your trip to the Outer Hebrides as expensive or as cheap as you like.

I reckon Vicky and I spent around £450 – £500 each on our trip, including petrol, transport (ferries), food, and accommodation. That included a mix of camping and hotels. We spent nothing on activities (as some were closed and we also didn’t have tons of time).

However, you could easily spend a lot more than we did if you’re doing activities, hiring cars and staying in fancier hotels. Or you could spend a lot less if you’re wild camping/camping and cooking for yourself the whole time.

When to Visit the Outer Hebrides

You can visit the Outer Hebrides all year. You’ll generally get the best weather during the British summer, however, the weather in the UK and especially Scotland, is never guaranteed, so even if you go in summer it can rain or be cold. The British summertime tends to be the busiest time of year when the schools are on holiday.

Just be prepared for all weather, and know that it rains a lot and is very windy due to the island’s position out on the Atlantic Ocean. Bad weather may affect things like activities and the ferries between the islands.

Midges can be a problem in Scotland in the summer (although not a big problem in the breezy Outer Hebrides), so travelling in April/May and September/October are popular times, when the weather can be pretty ok and the midges aren’t an issue!

Outer Hebrides Itinerary

Loch Lomond & the Trossachs National Park

Early in the morning, Vicky and I left my house in North West England, heading towards Loch Lomond in Scotland. And whilst this isn’t part of the Outer Hebrides, I’ll talk about it anyway, in case it’s useful for you!

Now, I have to give a special mention to Tebay Services on the M6, my favourite service station in the UK! I love Tebay, although every time I go I end up spending a fortune in their farm shop.

We picked up some cheese, chutney, crackers, cakes, gin in a tin, and then continued our journey to Loch Lomond in Scotland.

On the way, we stopped at the Loch Lomond Visitors Centre at Balloch. We had a little walk around and although it wasn’t a highlight of the trip for me, kids might enjoy the Sea Life Aquarium or the Loch Lomond Bird of Prey Centre.

We also visited the village of Luss, which is very cute and pretty with a few shops, toilets and a pay and display car park. We walked around the village, had lunch at The Village Rest (which was really nice) and took a stroll down to the the dock where we saw a beautiful rainbow! You can take boat trips out onto the lake with Cruise Loch Lomond if you have the time.

Our last stop was the village of Ardlui and the Ardlui Hotel, where we grabbed a drink in the bar and Vicky had the chance to fly her drone over the loch before we made our way to the Pine Trees Leisure Park, our accommodation for the night.

If you want to wild camp around here, you will need to get a permit (unlike in the Outer Hebrides, you can’t just camp for free) and follow the rules of the park!

I would have liked an extra day here as there are lots of great activities in and around Loch Lomond, including walks, boat trips, paddleboarding, and kayaking.

Oban

Loch Lomond is on the West Highland Way, one of Scotland’s most-loved walking trails, so Vicky and I took a morning walk along part of the trail before we began our journey to Oban where we would catch the ferry to the Outer Hebrides. We stopped at the The Real Food Cafe (highly recommended) for a bacon, egg, and cheese butty on the way.

In Oban, we had a few hours before we were due to board the ferry, so we parked up and had a little wander around town and grabbed some lunch. I got some fish & chips from MacGillivray’s Seafood whilst Vicky picked up some seafood from the Oban Seafood Hut (Green Shack) down by the ferry office.

This place has a big sign saying ‘Local Shellfish’, had big queues, which means it’s probably really good and it gets good ratings on Tripadvisor. They did a big platter which looked fab… if only I liked shellfish.

I liked Oban immediately. There were lots of souvenir shops, whiskey shops, the Highland Soap Co. (great for Christmas presents, and treating yourself) as well as some nice pubs and restaurants, which included a lot of seafood places. A popular activity is to take a tour of the Oban Whiskey Distillery which is often booked up in advance.

Barra & Vatersay

We took the CalMac car ferry from Oban to Castlebay (5.5 hours) on the Isle of Barra, our first stop on our Outer Hebrides itimnerary along with the tiny neighbouring island of Vatersay.

You can also fly into Barra with Loganair and land on one of the world’s only beach runways. Whilst I wouldn’t usually consider myself much of a plane spotter, Vicky and I made our way up to Barra Airport to see one of the daily flights coming in.

Why? Because Barra is the only airport in the world where scheduled flights land on a beach. Pretty cool, hey? And it’s just been voted the 5th most scenic airport in the world! Plus, if you fly in, you’ll get the bird’s eye view of this paradise island!

Barra is often nicknamed Barra-dise or Barra-bados and it was easy to see why people fall in love with the place. These were the quietest of the islands we visited and stunningly beautiful, with beaches that look like they came right from the Caribbean.

My favourite thing that we did whilst staying on Barra was going over to the island of Vatersay, the southern-most inhabited island in the Outer Hebrides.

To get to Vatersay, you take a short drive from Barra, and once there, just head off and explore. We spent most of our time on a beach called Traigh a Bhaigh where Vicky was able to set off the drone and get some stunning pictures.

The waters are crystal clear (perfect for swimming, if a little chilly), the sand clean and white, and there were cows just wandering down the beach. It was really idyllic. From here you can walk away from the beach, over the road, and across the dunes to the other side where another gorgeous beach awaits.

We only spent one day here, but it would have been lovely to spend more time and do some of the water-based activities. Unfortunately, it was too windy the day we were there anyway, but you might have more luck.

Things to Do on Barra

• Clearwater Paddling: A friend of mine highly recommended, taking a trip with these guys. She had beautiful weather when she went a few years ago and paddled over to a seal colony and saw puffins. Am I jealous… yep, lil’ bit!
• Isle of Barra Surf & Coastal Adventures: They run a few different activities including surfing, snorkelling with seals, coasteering, and kayaking.
• Barra Bike Hire: This would be a great way to see the Isle of Barra, especially as it’s quite small and the roads are quiet.
• Hebridean Sea Tours: They run trips around Barra and to some of the islands in the surrounding area including the abandoned island of St Kilda.
• Kismul Castle: The ancient seat of the Clan MacNeil, the ‘Castle in the Sea’ was closed when we were there due to Covid-19 restrictions, but usually, you can visit to learn about its history and climb up to the top for panoramic views over Castle Bay. You can find out more from the Isle of Barra Heritage Centre.
• The Isle of Barra Distillers Co: Whilst on the island you could pick up a bottle of locally made Barra Atlantic Gin. They usually offer tours from March to September on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays.

Where To Eat & Drink on Barra

• Cafe Kismul: We enjoyed a really nice meal at this Indian/Italian restaurant. It’s in the centre of the main village, near to the post office and ATM. It’s only small so you may be best to make a reservation.
• Castlebay Bar: This seems to be the nightlife on the island.
• Hebridean Toffee Factory & the Deck Cafe: We only stopped here for a bacon butty (didn’t try the toffee), but it was pretty good and this is where we picked up the cool tourist map you see on the photos.
• Bùth Bharraigh: A nice little visitor centre and shop selling food, souvenirs, and useful things like extra tent pegs. They also had a good selection of dairy and gluten-free items, something I always notice!
• Barra Airport Cafe: If you get peckish whilst waiting for the plane to come in, grab some food or a drink at the airport cafe.
• Co-Op: If you’re self-catering, there’s a Co-Op in town where you can stock up.
• Ardmhòr Coffee: Near to the ferry terminal, so you can pick up a pre-ferry drink or cake.

Where To Stay on Barra

• Wavecrest Campsite: We stayed at this campsite, which was really nice and cheap at £10 and with an amazing view. £15 if you need access to power. There are showers, toilets, and a kettle, but not much else in the way of facilities.
• Croft No. 2 Campsite: Situated at Barra’s northern point, this campsite has a modern toilet/shower block, a washing machine at £3.50 per wash and a mix of level and slightly sloping grass pitches, most with electrical hook-up. Chemical deposit point, dish-washing & storage area, in-door & outdoor drying. 
• Dunard Hostel: A few of the other people we met on the ferry were staying here, which was right in the centre of town, close to the ferry. This seems to be the popular backpacker’s choice!
• Isle of Barra Beach Hotel: In case you don’t fancy camping or hostelling. They also hire out electric bikes.
• Vatersay Old School: A gorgeous self-catering option on Vatersay Island.

Uist

For our second stop on the Outer Hebrides itinerary, we took the CalMac car ferry from Aird Mhor Barra Ferry Terminal to Eriskay (40 minutes), an island in the south of Uist, a larger group of islands which consists of Eriskay, South Uist, Grimsay, Benbecula, Flodaigh, Grimsay, North Uist, Baleshare, and Berneray. There is also an airport at Benbecula.

To be honest, we didn’t do much whilst we were here as we only had less than 24 hours, most of which was spent sleeping, eating, and driving, but if you have more time, there are lots of great things to do and it’s a very beautiful place!

We spent the night wild camping next to gorgeous Culla Bay Beach in Benbecula. Once again, the wind was howling, so our wild camping expedition wasn’t quite as successful as we’d hoped (this is where I ended up sleeping in the car).

Things to Do on Uist

• St Kilda: Uist is a great jumping-off point to visit the uninhabited island of St Kilda. There are a few companies that run tours throughout the Outer Hebrides including Uist Sea Tours. Highlights of the tours include spotting bottlenose dolphins and puffins.
• Hiking: There are a few nice walks on Uist, including the stunning Udal Peninsula (approx. 3 hours), North Lee (approx. 4 – 5 hours), the Barpa Langass and the Stone Circle and Vallay Island (approx. 30 mins at low tide, but just be very careful to come back before high tide or you’ll be stranded).
• Traigh Iar & the Beaches: Traigh Iar beach is a favourite in the area. Other great beaches include Clachan Sands, Hosta, Traigh Ear, and of course, Traigh Udal (Udal Peninsula).
• Uist Community Riding School: I can’t imagine few things feeling as good as riding a horse on one of these gorgeous, white sand beaches!
• Go Otter Spotting: Otters might just be the cutest creatures in the world, and there are a number of places to spot them on Uist and in other parts of the Outer Hebrides. You can find a list of places here.
• Balranald Nature Reserve: Bird lovers will enjoy a trip to this reserve in North Uist. Species found there include barnacle goose, corn bunting, corncrake, lapwing, and turnstone. Spring is a great time to visit. They offer guided walks during the summer months.

Where To Eat & Drink on Uist

• Charlie’s Bistro (Benbecula): We ate dinner at Charlie’s Bistro in Benbecula. The food was really nice and the owner Ian was super helpful and gave us lots of info! We also tasted some of the local Downpour Gin, made at the North Uist Distillery Co. As gin’s go, this was super tasty and had a really smooth, distinctive taste – definitely recommended.
• Am Politician: Bar & restaurant on Eriskay, overlooking the beach.
• Westford Inn (North Uist): Pub food with a great craft beer and gin selection. Currently best rated on Tripadvisor.
• Hamersay House (North Uist): Brasserie style restaurant using the freshest local ingredients.
• Lochmaddy Hotel (North Uist): Great selection of food including all the usual favourites. Good selection for veggies and vegans.
• Taigh Chearsabhagh (North Uist): Great cafe located at the Taigh Chearsabhagh Museum & Arts Centre.
• Langass Lodge (North Uist): Well-rated restaurant with evening meals served from 6pm.
• The Dunes Cabin (North Uist): This food truck at the Balranald Hebridean Holidays site near to the Balranald Nature Reserve.
• Berneray Shop & Bistro (Berneray): We stopped here to buy some toastie making supplies but unfortunately didn’t get a chance to eat at the bistro as it was too early – opens at 12pm.

Where To Stay on Uist

• Uist Storm Pods (South Uist): I love a good glamping holiday and these pods look like the perfect place to escape the elements, overlooking the loch towards South Lochboisdale.
• Uisinis Bothy (South Uist): Free bothy, however, you need to call ahead during the stag stalking season.
• Long Island Retreats (South Uist): Off-grid, self-catering accommodation, Located in some of the most scenic spots in South Uist.
• Uist Forest Retreat (North Uist): Luxury treehouse accommodation. These look like the dream and where I would stay if I went back!
• Westford Inn (North Uist): Great little cottage/bothy. Also with the best-rated restaurant on the island.
• The Tractor Shed Camping Pods & Bunkhouse (North Uist): Lovely glamping pods, the site fits up to 24 guests.
• Lochmaddy Hotel (North Uist): Nice, well-appointed rooms with a great restaurant and views looking over to the bay to the Isle of Skye.
• Hamersay House (North Uist): Comfortable rooms overlooking Lochmaddy Harbour.
• Langass Lodge (North Uist): Traditional style lodge, with views across the loch to Eaval.
• Balranald Hebridean Holidays (North Uist): Campsite with electric hookups, as well as a glamping pod and a small cottage.
• John’s Bunkhouse (Berneray): A popular spot is the famous John’s Bunkhouse on Berneray. This is nice and close to the ferry port if you have an early start over to Lewis and Harris.

Isle of Harris

We took the CalMac car ferry from Berneray in Uist to Leverburgh on the Isle of Harris (1 hour). Lewis and Harris is the main island of the Outer Hebrides. Harris is the southern third of the island and Lewis is the northern two-thirds of the island. You would say the ‘Isle of Lewis’ and the ‘Isle of Harris’ but they are attached and not two separate islands.

One thing to realise is that Lewis and Harris is much bigger than you think, so give yourself enough time to explore. We spent 2 nights in Lewis and 1 night in Harris. The first day was mostly spent driving to our accommodation which was in quite a remote location of Lewis.

We then spent the next day exploring Lewis, then a day exploring Harris, ending up in Tarbert on the 3rd night, so we were close to the ferry. If I were to do it again, I probably would have given a little bit more time here, at least 2 days for Lewis and 1 full day for Harris (or more).

Depending on where you are departing from (usually Stornoway for Ullapool or Tarbert for the isle of Skye), I would try to spend at least your final night close to the ferry to make it easier and then plan around that accordingly.

Things to Do on Harris

• Seilebost Beach: Said more like ‘Shul-e-bost’ in Gaelic, or at least that’s how it sounded to me) Beach – which was one of the many gorgeous beaches we visited on our Outer Hebrides itinerary. It was incredibly windy though! To get there, you park up, and then it’s a little walk over the dunes to get to the beach, this includes quite a steep drop down the sand dunes to get onto the beach so it wouldn’t be suitable for wheelchairs, at least not from this access point anyway.
• Clements Church: South of the ferry terminal is Rodel where you’ll find St Clements Church, built around 1520. A photograpers favourite.
• The Golden Road: Landing in Leverburgh, we drove what is known as the ‘Golden Road’. This runs from Rodel in the far south up to Tarbert, a port town in the middle of Harris.
• Isle of Harris Sea Tours: Our plan had been to do a tour with Isle of Harris Sea Tours. But again, the weather wasn’t so great, so we decided to give it a miss this time. Trips depart from Tarbert to various locations around the islands. They are also part of Kilda Cruises who offer tours to the abandoned, remote island of St Kilda.
• Luskentyre Beach: This was by far the busiest beach of the trip, probably because it’s gorgeous and it was a lot calmer than Seilebost, so perfect for swimming! Just down the road (you’ll pass it on the way), there is a cute little hut that was working on an honesty box system. We bought coffee and chocolates and made ourselves a little beach picnic, which was great until the rains came in. We tried to shelter under the picnic blanket but ended up abandoning the beach. And what do you know? It was sunny again by the time we got back to the car. Scottish weather is bonkers!
• Play Golf: I’m not a golfer, but my husband is and the golf course at Scarista (Isle of Harris Golf Club) is likely to be one of the most beautiful you’ll ever come across – let’s just hope the weather holds out!
• Eilean Glas Lighthouse, Scalpay: On the other side of Tarbert, on the island of Scalpay (driveable), you’ll come to the Eilean Glas Lighthouse. You can’t drive all the way there, so you’ll need to park, and then it’s a little bit of a hike (around 20 – 30 minutes) to the lighthouse. There are also a number of longer walks around the peninsular too.
• Tarbert: We spent our last night on the islands in Tarbert which is where the ferry departs to the Isle of Skye. In Tarbert, you can visit the Harris Distillery & Shop. They usually do tours, but they weren’t running at the time of our visit. You can also stock up on some of the famous Harris Tweed in the Harris Tweed Shop which is across the road.

Where To Eat & Drink on Harris

• Harris Hotel (Tarbert): We had a lovely meal here. I had the cullen skink and fish & chips, both were excellent (ps. I’ve never eaten so much fish & chips in my life as I did on this trip, it was fab).
• Taste n’ Sea food Truck (Loch Seaforth): Overlooking Loch Seaforth, this was a fantastic find. Both Vicky and I had the fish and chips (again), with homemade tartar sauce and she had a bowl of Cullen Skink too – which I didn’t try this time, but she assures me was very good.
• Sam’s Seafood Shack (Rodel): Food truck in Rodel with amazing reviews.
• Butty Bus (Leverburgh): Great for a quick bite, near to the Leverburgh ferry port.
• An Traigh (Seilebost): Great place for lunch and afternoon tea. Amazing views.
• Scarista House (Scarista): Beautiful hotel and restaurant, great for a romantic night.

Where To Stay on Harris

• Harris Hotel (Tarbert): We stayed here on our last night as we’d heard a storm was brewing (we were going to camp). It was cosy and they had a nice restaurant. A great place to relax.
• Hotel Hebrides (Tarbert): This is a more modern hotel, situated right next to the ferry in Tarbert.
• Kirklea Island Suites (Tarbert): Gorgeous apartments right near the ferry.
• Sandy Bay Croft Wigwams (Scarista): We drove past these and they looked incredible with great views over the beaches.
• West Harris Trust (Various Locations): The West Harris Trust have a number of great camping spots on the island, close to Seilebost and Luskentyre beaches.
• Fir Chlis (Seilebost Beach): Gorgeous self-catering home, overlooking Seilebost Beach. One of the top picks on the Isle of Harris.
• Borve Lodge Estate (Borve): If you really want to treat yourself, stay at one of the gorgeous lodges on the Borve Lodge Estate.
• Horgabost Campsite (Borve): On the beach, opposite the island of Taransay.
• Scaladale Centre (Loch Seaforth): Hostel & activity centre, offering things like mountain biking, rock climbing, sea kayaking, and coasteering.
• Lickisto Blackhouse Camping (Lickisto): Stay in your own tent, campervan or one of their gorgeous glamping yurts.

Isle of Lewis

As mentioned, I wish I’d had a bit more time in Lewis. Two full days would have been great! Lewis has a lot of things to do and places to explore, so don’t rush it!

While the other islands had been more flat, Harris and Lewis were more hilly and barren looking, reminding me of England’s Lake District or the Scottish Highlands.

To get to Lewis, you can either drive from Harris or get the car ferry from Ullapool to Stornoway to do this trip in reverse. There’s also an airport in Stornoway.

Things to Do on Lewis

• Mangersta Beach: We didn’t visit Mangersta Beach, but if you have more time, it does look amazing. With a number of sea stacks out in the water it’s a good place for photography.
• Uig (Lewis) Chessmen & Uig Bay: We went to see the 12th Century Uig Chessmen, a chess set, calved from walrus ivory, found in Uig Bay in 1831. What we didn’t realise is that the real chess pieces are on display in British Museum in London, and the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh. What you see in Lewis is a replica statue, but it’s still pretty cool. Uig Bay is an incredibly beautiful place to visit, with a huge sandy beach. There’s also the Uig Community Shop and Petrol Station if you need to stock up. Seatrek also run boat tours departing from here.
• Reef Beech & the Circular Scenic Route: We took the Circular Scenic Route on the way to Reef Beach. This is a really nice, relatively short drive and Reef Beach is one of the prettiest around.
• Bosta Beach, Great Bernera: My uncle’s parents came from the island of Great Bernera off the coast of Lewis (you can drive there via a bridge), so I wanted to make a special trip out there to see the lovely Bosta Beach. Again we found another amazing white sand and turquoise waters beach – they just kept getting better and better!
• The Callanish Stones: The Callanish Stones are ancient, 5000-year-old stones from the  Neolithic era that were erected as a place of ritual and worship during the Bronze Age. If you can work it into your itinerary (and you get the weather), it might be nice to be at the Callanish Stones around sunrise or sunset, as the illuminated sky will really make your photos look incredible!
• Gearrannan Blackhouse Village: Sadly this was closed when we were in the area, but we drive past for a look anyway! This is a traditional Hebridean village, located right on the coast, where you can stay or visit to learn about life in the Outer Hebrides.
• Dalmore Beach (Traigh Dhail Mhor): If you haven’t had enough of the beaches yet (and you probably never will), make your way to Dalmore Beach for more gorgeous views.
• Stac a’ Phris Sea Arch: A little further around the coast, you’ll come to the Stac a’Phris Sea Arch on the West Side Coastal Path. Being on the west side, this is a popular place for sunset photography, so would make a nice final stop before heading back to Stornoway for dinner.
• Stornoway: We got to Stornoway in the early evening. Stornoway is the capital of the Hebrides and where you’ll find most of the action. We first had a walk around the harbour, followed by a drink at McNeill’s pub, ending with dinner in the Harbour Kitchen. Even though they were booked up, they fitted us in for an early dinner.

Where To Eat & Drink on Lewis

• Harbour Kitchen (Stornoway): We had dinner here and I’d highly recommend the food and the friendly service. Vicky had the biggest pot of mussels I’ve ever seen (I think she counted 70+) and I had fish & chips (again). Both were fantastic and I’d highly recommend going here. Just make sure you book ahead as it’s very popular!
• Harris & Lewis Smokehouse (Stornoway): We were set on eating here to sample their smoked salmon, but it was closed when we were there.
• Boatshed Restaurant (Stornoway): Stylish restaurant at the Royal Stornoway Hotel.
• Uig Sands Restaurant (Uig): Lovely restaurant overlooking Uig Sands, famous for their smoked salmon.

Where To Stay on Lewis

• Broad Bay House (Stornoway): Gorgeous b&b just outside of Stornoway.
• Airbnb (Cromore): We stayed in this lovely Airbnb, in Cromore. It was a little bit out of the way, but really comfortable and the hosts were lovely.
• Otter Bunkhouse & Bothy (Uig): Bunkhouse sleeping 8 people. Bothy sleeps 2 people.
• Otter Bay Pod (Stornoway): Small and cosy pod near to Stornoway. Sleeps 2 adults and 2 kids, or 3 adults.
• Stornoway B&B (Stornoway): Cosy b&b in the centre of Stornoway.
• The Hatchery (Tolstachaolais): Gorgeous house, sleeps 4. Would be an amazing house to have over Christmas and New Year!
• Mangersta Croft Holidays (Mangersta): Lovely glamping pods near Mangersta Beach.
• Gearrannan Blackhouse Village: Unique accommodation, great for groups.
• Eilean Fraoich Campsite (Shawbost): Up in the north of Lewis, near to Gearrannan Blackhouse Village.

Leaving the Outer Hebrides

From the Outer Hebrides, you have a few different choices.

If you hired a car in the Hebrides, you can fly back to the mainland from Stornoway, Barra, or Benbecula. Or you can get the ferry from Tarbert (Isle of Harris) to Uig on the Isle of Skye and travel onwards from there. Skye joins onto the mainland, so you can easily make your way to Glasgow, Edinburgh, or Inverness.

Another option is to get the ferry from Stornoway to Ullapool on the mainland, which is a great place to begin exploring the Highlands, including the fabulous North Coast 500 drive.

Other Scotland posts you might enjoy…

• 30 Things To Know Before You Drive Scotland’s NC500
• Scotland’s North Coast 500 Route Planner, Map & 1-Week Itinerary

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